I owe my family and all of you an apology.

I was unfaithful to my wife. My actions hurt her and our children. There is no excuse for what I did. I am deeply sorry.

Throughout my life, my family has given me love and support. They deserve my honesty and loyalty. Instead, I let them down and damaged the life we built together. I take full responsibility for what I did and the hurt I caused, and I accept the criticism that comes with it.

To my wife and family: I love you. I know an apology cannot undo what I have done. I hope our family will heal and that, over time, I can earn back your trust. 

To my colleagues at NVIDIA, including those I have worked alongside for decades, and to our board, partners, and shareholders around the world: you deserve better from me. Leading NVIDIA is the privilege of my life. My responsibility is to serve you and be worthy of your trust. I have fallen short of that responsibility. I am fully committed to NVIDIA and will work to earn back your confidence.

Regarding the national security concerns raised in news reports, NVIDIA’s Board of Directors has initiated an independent investigation. I support the investigation and will cooperate fully. I love our country and our company. I am committed to protecting NVIDIA and supporting America’s national security. I am proud and grateful to be an American.

My family bears no responsibility for my choices. I do. Please give them privacy.

Jensen

The Rockstar Launcher hasn't been updated to THAT extent, i mean if you take a look at the update notes, they have overhauled the launcher's overlay and updated to add explicit support for Windows 11 (26H1 and 26H2).

This could be huge, since the Rockstar Launcher is a buggy mess...And now with them updating it, it could mean that they are improving it for GTA 6 PC Port

Stolen meme, but I got a 144hz monitor a while back, and I finally decided to give it a proper test. I have thousands of hours in Genshin, and I play on a 3rd party client because it makes XXMI (Genshin modding) really easy, and I'm on Linux so I can't use the regular launcher. I happened to notice it has an fps unlocker, because the game is normally locked to 60 fps. I never cared much about high fps, especially not for an exploration game like Genshin, so I ignored it for the 300 hours of gameplay I have since I switched to Linux. However, today I decided to give it a try and HOLY STANK is it so much better.

I will say that people are correct when they point out, your eyes aren't fast enough to see individual frames even at 60 fps, and especially not at 144. However, almost everything feels a lot more responsive and snappier in a way that's hard to explain, and the biggest difference is in motion. When panning the camera around quickly, you can almost count the number of frames with 60 fps that it takes for something to move past. At 144, it's MUCH smoother.

I also had some weird issues with the fps counters that I was using. One of them was capping the game at 90 fps, so I got to try and compare 90 with 60 and 144. The difference between 60 and 90 is extremely drastic, but the difference between 90 and 144 is a lot less noticeable. I would say the difference between 144 and 120 is probably imperceptible for most people.

Anyway, just wanted to throw my opinion on the topic into the discussion because I remember seeing people talking about this on tiktok a while back.

Jensen finally admitted his affair

https://finance.yahoo.com/markets/article/nvidias-jensen-huang-admits-to-affair-after-allegations-of-romance-with-chinese-spy-report-205122263.html

Q: does that mean Nvidia will finally crack down on the China smuggling and therefore provide relief to PC gamers on PC parts ?

TLDR; The PC was running hot so i turned it into a airconditioner. In the winter..

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EDIT:
Thanks for the positive feedback! Did not expect it to blow up like this haha. 1.4m views is amazing

I hope this got Luggage’s attention! Haha
Im comming for that number two spot in Steel Nomad for 4070Ti Super:)

I dont have bugs in the winter and this was just a proof of concept. I will change the way the rad id mounted on the outside to account for this if i keep it in the summer.
Thanks for the concerns tho!

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So this started as "what if I just put a radiator outside in winter" and turned into a 2 month project. It works now, so here it is.

My room gets warm when I game and it's -4 outside. Free cooling right? The catch is if the water going into the pc gets too cold you get condensation on the parts, and water dripping on a 4070 Ti Super is not the vibe. So the whole thing is built around keeping the water cold, but not too cold.

Specs

• Case: Corsair 570X (modded to accommodate 3x fans on top and a 360x30mm in the front)

• Mobo: ROG Maximus Z890 Apex

  • Putty pro on the VRM's

  • Putty pro on CK an PMIC and Pad Pro 0.5mm on the chips. 1mm HC pad on the back.

  • Putty pro on CK an PMIC and Pad Pro 0.5mm on the chips. 1mm HC pad on the back.

  • Putty pro on CK an PMIC and Pad Pro 0.5mm on the chips. 1mm HC pad on the back.

  • Putty pro on CK an PMIC and Pad Pro 0.5mm on the chips. 1mm HC pad on the back.

  • Putty pro on CK an PMIC and Pad Pro 0.5mm on the chips. 1mm HC pad on the back.

  • Putty pro on CK an PMIC and Pad Pro 0.5mm on the chips. 1mm HC pad on the back.

  • Putty pro on CK an PMIC and Pad Pro 0.5mm on the chips. 1mm HC pad on the back.

• CPU: Core Ultra 7 270K Plus, delidded, TG 1851 Mycro Pro, Conductonaut Extreme

• RAM: 2x24GB G.Skill 8400 with Bykski Spreaders and IceManCooler ICE-RAM-2CH

  • Putty pro on CK an PMIC and Pad Pro 0.5mm on the chips. 1mm HC pad on the back.

• GPU: RTX 4070 Ti Super TUF with bykski block (Pulls 500w :)

• PSU: Corsair RM1000e and changed out the fan to a NF-A12 G1

• Storage: Kingston Fury Renegade 2TB

The GPU shenanigans

- Conductonaut Extreme on the core with nail polish and a 4090 gpu guard

- Putty PRO on the VRM and memory

- Shunt mod on the 16 pin: stacked a 5 mOhm resistor on top of the stock one, so the card thinks it pulls about 30 % less than it does. Board reports 215 W when it's actually pulling 290 W

-It now pulls up to 510w on 128% PL. Bumped to 1.165v in this test.

- Currently doing 3165MHz core and 1557 memory but still a work in progress. Scored 6626 Steel nomad on the first test i did. 39c core - 29 Memory - 45 hotspot

The CPU

- Intel 1851 Delid-Die-Mate V1 and Intel 1851 Delid-Die-Mate Heater V1. running 85-90c before the delid, now down to 60-65 on ambient cooling and 40-45 with the cooling system turned on.

- 58x two Pcores, 57x all Pcore, 50x all Ecores, 42x ring, 34xNGU and 30xD2D.
This is the same oc i ran before the delid so i am certain i can go higher.

- Scores 47400 in r23

- GSkill TZ5CK 48gb 8400 cl 36 with 65.5ns

The loop

- EK Kinetic D5 res/pump

- 120 rad at the back, 360 in the front, NF-A12 G2's on both

- Cube with a temp sensor right before the GPU so I know exactly what temp the water going in is

- a mix of Alphacool fittings, bykski and barrow. 38 in total, and some 90 degree and T's. EPDM tubing.

- DP Ultra clear with added pure ethylen glycole to drop the freezing point from -18c to -28c

The outside part

- Alphacool XE240 out through the house wall with 2 Noctua iPPC-3000s on it

- Bykski D5 + res in a box next to the pc that pushes water outside

- Motorized 3-way valve that decides how much water goes outside vs straight back

- Arduino Mega running the outside half, 3 temp probes in the water and 3 temp/humidity sensors (2 in the case, 1 in the room)

- Aviation connectors on the back of the case so the whole box unplugs

- Little 1.9" screen in the case showing temps, because of course

How it works (short version)

The pc loop runs like normal. When it needs extra cooling, the second pump sends some of the water out to the rad outside and back in.
A python script starts on startup and it connects to the arduino, takes over from the arduinos own auto mode, and it connects to HWi and Fancontrol so i get total control over the dynamics.

It watches the temps and the humidity and spins the outside fans up or down so the water coming back is always a safe amount above the dew point. If anything goes weird or it looses connection it shuts the outside part off on its own. It allways starts in passive mode (like any other waterloop) and when i press auto it drops the temps to Calculated dew + 10c. In benchmarking this drops even further down to +5c.

Im currently working on and collecting logs to build a Benchmarking mode enabling me to ride the Dew like piggieback:) but this is for another time.

Things that went wrong. The list is growing...

- Forgot to add the Check valve on the aplhacool order, it costs almost nothing but the shipping and import for that alone would be like 40 bucks so i built it without it, then spent way too long figuring out why the temps were acting cursed:)

- Two mosfts decided to start dating momentarely and shortcircuited on the power board i made.. so the outside pump wouldn't turn off. troubleshooting this was fun...

- Broken solder joint that I was sure was a software bug for like 3 hours

- First time it i was filling the outside loop the shit decided to flood the pc becouse some dumbass "me" forgot to plug the top of the res. Cleanup was a nightmare...

Results (so far)

Unigine Heaven, around 370 W going into the water:

- GPU ~37 °C, hot spot mid 40s

- water going into the pc held at 15 °C

- outside fans chilling at ~35 % and the inside pump barely audible

an hour of CS2: GPU 34 °C, cpu 45-50.

Cinebench r23: CPU 52 °C.

Steel nomad: GPU 48 °C.

Room stays cold now too, which was the whole point.

Well this is an understatement because when the fans in the pc are running, (temp handbrake due to the room being hotter then the coolant) it becomes a freaking air conditioner and my feet start to freeze. (Might address this in next sw release haha)

AMA I guess.

I wanted to give thanks to the community and for people like u/pedro19 who organize the contests and giveaways. I was the lucky winner of the Control Resonant RTX 5080 prize, and after a few hiccups with custom clearance, my prize was finally delivered.

I want to give a HUGE thank you to everyone involved in making these giveaways possible. I truly want to thank nVidia for this card because there is no way I would have ever had a chance to even think about buying one. Scroll through the pictures and you'll see why in a moment.

The card is an RTX 5090 FE!!

To my fellow PCMasterRacers enter every giveaway because you may just win like I did.

Once again, a massive thank you to Remedy Entertainment, NVIDIA, u/pedro19, and the entire r/pcmasterrace community for making this possible!

There is no mention what the CPU is but I can't imagine it's any good for 270 euros in Kaufland.

My Acer Predator Helios 300 had some issues (did not turn on) so I had to RMA it.

Since Acer doesn't have official stores in Romania, I brought it back to the local shop where I got it from it so they could ship it to their own service (being Acer certified service)

2 weeks went by without any contact. When I went back to check on them, the guy showed me a picture on his phone (below) and said that this is how my laptop arrived to their service.

They were probably lying, because I contacted the delivery company, and they said that the store made no claim regarding my package.

My theory is that they messed up something, and another item in the service accidentally "fell" on my laptop. Some time later my laptop is gone, my projects are gone, my data is gone, and I'm starting university without a laptop, as I can't afford similar one with today's prices.

My apartment complex got hit with a power outage yesterday, followed by a power surge when the power was switched back on.

My roommate's PS5 no longer turns on. He had it plugged into a dollar-store power bar, which didn't even trip its switch.

I have another friend in the same complex who lost their PSU and GPU to the surge as well.

All that to say: buy some decent surge protection. The protectors in my house probably saved me from several thousand dollars in repairs yesterday; I was initially a bit concerned for my gear but am pleased to report that everything still turns the fuck on.

Tripp-Lite/Eaton and APC are the two brands I would look at, preferring the first. I have about half a dozen Tripp-Lite power bars around my house, all of which tripped, and two LC1800 power conditioners (one for my gaming PC and one for my homelab rack), which tanked the surge without issue as well.

It's easy to justify $300 for a power conditioner when your rig is suddenly worth $5000 thanks to the component crisis.

That is all, folks.